Contents
- EU regulations for textiles
- ESPR timeline for apparel brands
- Key reporting requirements
- Impact on apparel brands
- How to prepare for the ESPR
- How Anthesis can help
- Contact us
Share this article
Regulators are moving away from “carbon tunnel vision” toward a more comprehensive look at the overall impact of how we produce and consume products, particularly within high-impact sectors like textiles. The European Union has taken the most aggressive lead in establishing new standards and reporting requirements for products through the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) along with restrictions on green claims.
The ESPR, which entered into force on 18th July 2024, mandates comprehensive ecodesign requirements for various product groups, including textiles and apparel. As part of the shift, textiles brands are required to conduct greater due diligence and align with ESPR compliance for textiles standards covering the product lifecycle.
Apparel companies will need a formalised process for ecodesign to be able to comply with the ESPR requirements.
What are the EU regulations for textiles?
The European Union’s regulatory framework for textiles, including ESPR textiles standards, aims to reduce environmental impacts and promote circularity. within the industry.
ESPR builds on the principles set out in the European Green Deal and the Circular Economy Action Plan, aiming to make products more durable, repairable, and recyclable while reducing their environmental footprint throughout their lifecycle. It also complements the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, introduced in March 2022.
In addition to the ESPR and the Strategy, the Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for Apparel are a critical part of the European Commission’s plan. These rules offer detailed guidelines for calculating the environmental footprint of apparel products, ensuring consistency and comparability across the industry. While the final guidance for PEFCR may not be fully released yet, it will soon provide a standardised framework for assessing and reporting environmental impacts, including greenhouse gas emissions, water use, and resource depletion.
Together, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, ESPR and the upcoming PEFCR for Apparel form a comprehensive approach to transform the textile sector to be more sustainable and circular. The Strategy outlines the broader sustainability goals, ESPR enforces mandatory ecodesign requirements and the PEFCR provides a standardised method for measuring and reporting environmental impacts from products and textiles. This multi-faceted regulatory framework aims to ensure that textile products on the EU market are increasingly sustainable, transparent, and aligned with circular economy principles.
What is the ESPR timeline for textile brands?
The ESPR is already in effect, having been adopted in May 2024, with apparel as one of the priority sectors it targets.
Detailed requirements will be introduced progressively through Delegated Acts from 2025, and by 2027, all apparel products on the EU market must fully comply. Additionally, Digital Product Passports (DPPs), providing comprehensive sustainability information, will be mandatory by 2027.
Whilst apparel companies have relatively short development cycles, the effort to make the required changes is not to be overstated. Apparel suppliers and brands alike should take immediate action to avoid non-compliance risks and ensure a smooth transition.
What are the key ESPR reporting requirements for textile brands?
Under the ESPR, apparel brands are subject to stringent disclosing requirements designed to enhance transparency and accountability. One of the primary obligations is the provision of detailed product information through Digital Product Passports (DPPs). These passports must include data on the environmental footprint, durability, repairability, and recyclability of each product, as well as the presence of any Substances of Concern (SoC).
Brands are also required to report on their compliance with specific ecodesign criteria set by the regulation. This includes documenting the use of sustainable materials, adherence to resource efficiency standards, and measures taken to extend product lifecycles. There’s also the expectation that companies will need to provide extensive supply chain information, which has historically been a challenge for the industry.
Finally, companies must also ensure the availability of end-of-life information, facilitating proper disposal, recycling, or reuse of products. This includes providing consumers with details on take-back schemes, repair services, and recycling options.
While the specifics of testing and communication requirements, namely for hazardous chemicals and durability, are still being finalised, they are expected to align with existing and upcoming EU regulations.
How will the ESPR impact apparel & textile brands?
The ESPR will have a profound impact on apparel brands, driving significant changes in product design, manufacturing, and overall business strategies.
One of the most immediate effects will be the need to integrate sustainability into the core of product development. Brands will have to focus on creating durable, repairable, and recyclable products, which may require investing in new technologies, materials, and design practices.
Stricter supply chain management requirements could lead to rigorous auditing and monitoring processes. This will likely increase operational costs in the short term but aims to improve resource efficiency and reduced waste in the long-term.
The introduction of Digital Product Passports will also require a more transparent approach to consumer engagement. Brands will have to provide comprehensive information on the sustainability attributes of their products, which could enhance brand reputation and consumer trust. However, failure to comply with these transparency requirements could result in regulatory penalties and damage to brand image.
Finally, ESPR includes provisions to ban the destruction of unsold apparel products. The ban covers products that have not been sold (such as surplus stock, deadstock and products returned by consumers) and limits the ability of companies to destroy apparel and accessories.
In summary, whilst ESPR presents challenges, it also offers opportunities for innovation and leadership within the apparel sector.
How can brands prepare for the ESPR?
To prepare for the ESPR, apparel brands should begin by conducting a comprehensive assessment of their current practices and identifying areas that need improvement to meet the new requirements. This includes evaluating the sustainability of their materials, design processes, and supply chain operations. Brands should focus on integrating eco-design principles which are outlined as a priority for apparel by the European Commission, such as durability, repairability, and recyclability, into their product development processes.
Investing in research and development is crucial to innovate and adopt new sustainable materials and technologies. Brands should collaborate with suppliers and other stakeholders to ensure the availability of more sustainable materials and to enhance the overall performance and transparency of their supply chains. Additionally, brands should prepare for the implementation of Digital Product Passports, which will likely require changes to data management as well as the creation of new processes.
Training and educating internal teams on the regulatory requirements and sustainability practices will also be vital to ensure successful implementation.
Anthesis Guidance on the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation
How Anthesis can help
Our experts have a deep understanding of the apparel and textile sectors and can help companies navigate the complex regulatory landscape. We assist in developing and implementing strategies that improve the sustainable performance of your organisation’s entire product portfolio, while meeting business objectives and complying with upcoming regulations.
There is a lot to consider when planning to navigate ESPR in addition to other existing and upcoming regulations that impact Apparel companies. Partnering with sustainability consultants and industry organisations can provide valuable insights and practical strategies for compliance. By getting ahead of compliance deadlines for ESPR, apparel brands can not limit risks but also mitigate costs and position themselves as leaders in sustainability within the industry.
Get in touch
We are the world’s leading purpose driven, digitally enabled, science-based activator. And always welcome inquiries and partnerships to drive positive change together.
We’d love to hear from you